What's a Farmers' Market For?
06.03.10, 11:17am Comments (3)

Over at GOOD magazine's blog, Borborygmi has a quite interesting post on the limits, promise, and utility of farmers' markets:

Even today, many markets offer little guarantee of local food and no guarantee that the vendor himself grew what he’s selling... So if markets are not necessarily better for the environment and they aren’t always transparent about the source of food, what are they for?

In a recent essay on the food movement, Michael Pollan cites a sociologist who found that shoppers were 10 times as likely to spark up a conversation at a market compared to a grocery store. He's not alone in suggesting that farmers’ markets are not exclusively designed for buy-local commerce. In Market Day in Provence, an ethnographic study of southern France’s outdoor markets, author Michèle de La Pradelle suggests that street markets serve little economic function; their purpose is cultural. Their potential includes reinvigorated public space, walkable neighborhoods, and places where people can talk about, touch, and ask questions about the food they’re purchasing—directly from the farmer (or, in some cases, the middleman).

Both scholars and activists have cited the recent growth of farmers' markets as evidence of a great transformation in food distribution. The Obama Administration has jumped on the bandwagon with a White House market on Thursdays (arguably a better idea than its playtime-in-the-potato patch on the South Lawn). However, until there’s greater transparency about where food is coming from and more equal racial and class participation in farmers’ markets, their promise for widespread social transformation falls short. For now, let's make those abundant market-time conversations raise questions about supplemental nutrition programs and who actually picked those peppers.

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The prevalence of farmers' markets does represent the rise of a new distribution strategy (farmers trucking product to the customer). However, the ag advocates promoting that strategy never promised better sustainability, total transparency, or environmental or social justice as part of that package.

So the promise of social transformation doesn't fall short. it was never made. Rather, you are suggesting new goals for farmers' markets now that they are so popular.

I'd love to see you take it further and illustrate how people in the food & farming world are trying to address those issues. In other words, who should the Obama administraton be backing with our money?

I think that one of the new goals for Farmers Markets that Tom mentions should be to make them more accessible and available to people in low-income neighborhoods; the lack of availability of fresh produce is a serious public health issue that Farmers Markets could play a role in improving. Maybe sustainability isn't what they're for, but instead accessibility. Here's a bit more about "food deserts": http://news.ncmonline.com/news/view_article.html?article_id=aa75b587a95e...
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/05/30/us/30cncfood.html

As a mom who would love to shop local and support my local farmers, I like the farmer's market because they all meet in one place. It saves me a load of time. I can't travel to 6 different farms every week. I feed a family of 7 and we rent. We don't store food that needs to last a long time. We can't. So rather than travel to all the farms, or shop at my nearest chain store...a farmer's market is a viable option for for people who want to support the local economy and eat local foods without driving all over three different towns.

Joanna Basinger
www.closestcloset.com